Shawn Keating Olson

Communication

2009-09-11T14:07:00.001-07:00

is like a burden being lifted. like resolving unfinished business. like freedom and fresh air.

Election Night, 2008

2008-11-11T09:51:00.001-08:00

Yay OOOOOOOBBBBBBAAAAAMMMAAAA!!!

A rousing party at the Nightlight in Bellingham on November 4, 2008....thanks to Ken and Amy Mann for throwing the best election bash I've ever been to!!

The product of our pumpkin carving

2008-10-31T16:18:00.001-07:00

Andrea, Scott and I carved 8 pumpkins last night! Woohoo!

We relish the quiet

2008-10-14T07:43:00.000-07:00

I relish the quiet,
the cats at my side.
The calm all about us,
the weight of my eyes.

The distant wind-rush
of dead leaves outside
softens the stillness
of a dry, autumn night.

Between the sheets on my futon
I snuggle and sigh.
Another short Sunday
has passed us all by.

My lover's in China,
my roommate's asleep.
With soft purrs and cuddles,
to the stillness we keep.

'Cause life's so damn busy,
and down time flies by.
So we relish the quiet,
my cats and I.

On Action

2008-10-07T10:54:00.001-07:00

Sentiment without action is the ruin of the soul.
--Ed Abbey

that black subterranean castle (Fall poem from Mary Oliver)

2008-09-28T21:29:00.000-07:00

Fall Song

Another year gone, leaving everywhere
its rich spiced residues: vines, leaves,

the uneaten fruits crumbling damply
in the shadows, unmattering back

from the particular island
of this summer, this NOW, that now is nowhere

except underfoot, moldering
in that black subterranean castle

of unobservable mysteries - roots and sealed seeds
and the wanderings of water. This

I try to remember when time's measure
painfully chafes, for instance when autumn

flares out at the last, boisterous and like us longing
to stay - how everything lives, shifting

from one bright vision to another, forever
in these momentary pastures.

---Mary Oliver

Singing along in the Entiat Range, WA

2008-09-28T15:51:00.000-07:00

This has always made me laugh! Summer of 2007 I believe it was, while backpacking near Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack, we found a dog (not a stray - he had a collar and a bear bell!) who thought we were good company and stayed the night. He was an excellent singer and kept us well-entertained....

My question to you

2008-09-26T14:53:00.000-07:00

Our culture has exalted intellectual and monetary success as the ultimate goals toward which to strive.

My question to you is:
How successful are you
At being happy in the world?

A poem from Pablo

2008-09-24T10:20:00.000-07:00

Morning (Love Sonnet XXVII)
by Pablo Neruda

Naked you are simple as one of your hands;
Smooth, earthy, small, transparent, round.
You've moon-lines, apple pathways
Naked you are slender as a naked grain of wheat.

Naked you are blue as a night in Cuba;
You've vines and stars in your hair.
Naked you are spacious and yellow
As summer in a golden church.

Naked you are tiny as one of your nails;
Curved, subtle, rosy, till the day is born
And you withdraw to the underground world.

As if down a long tunnel of clothing and of chores;
Your clear light dims, gets dressed, drops its leaves,
And becomes a naked hand again.

Fire and Ice

2008-09-19T11:30:00.001-07:00

Some say the world will end in fire;
Some say in ice.
From what I've tasted of desire
I hold with those who favor fire.
But if it had to perish twice,
I think I know enough of hate
To know that for destruction ice
Is also great
And would suffice.

--Robert Frost

Okanogan Wine Tour.....via bike!

2008-09-03T09:37:00.001-07:00

Scott and I visited the Okanogan Valley over Labor Day weekend....in particular, the Naramata Bench, where wineries, fruit orchards, and vineyards are abundant. We lazily rode our bikes from winery to winery, visiting:

Elephant Island Orchard and Vineyard *
Lang Vineyard
Lake Breeze Vineyards *
Kettle Valley Winery
Poplar Grove Vineyards
Therapy Vineyards
Naramata Pub (not a winery, but warrants a mention! Good munchies basket and a great local nut brown ale!)

*These two were our favorites!

It was a lovely, sunny, gorgeous trip with much relaxation....except the 2000 foot hill climb back to our campsite, AFTER all the wine tasting AND a trip to the brewery....sigh. But we made it!

Awwwwww.....Christian the Lion!

2008-08-21T14:09:00.000-07:00

http://www.cyberthing.net/video-play.php?id=105

The Yip Yips meet the telephone

2008-08-21T09:31:00.000-07:00

Trogdor, the day-brightener

2008-08-19T15:45:00.000-07:00

Watch this, and you will laugh. I promise.

Bliss is . . .

2008-08-19T09:27:00.000-07:00

Poem of the day

2008-08-18T17:15:00.000-07:00

It's one I've liked for a long time. Don't know who it's by, but I'm pretty sure it's about the Liberty Bell:

Ring the bells that still can ring;
Forget your perfect offering.
There is a crack in everything,
That's how the light gets in.

A Banjo On Her Knee

2008-08-14T16:49:00.000-07:00

Interested in the history of banjo music in the States? Did you know that it was primarily women who kept the banjo alive and thumpin' in the hills of the South around the late 19th century? Curious? Read on: http://www.oldtimeherald.org/archive/back_issues/volume-8/8-2/full-banjo-on-her-knee.html

Song of the Day: Lazy John

2008-08-13T11:18:00.000-07:00

A fun little ditty to remember and learn how to play:

And another, more uppity version: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0X06XjuA2s&feature=related

Yeah for banjo!!!

Picket Range Traverse - South to North

2008-08-13T11:01:00.000-07:00

From July 27 - August 3, Alan Kearney and I traversed the Picket Range in the North Cascades, WA, from South to North. This trip consisted of an abundance of solitude, 6 days of rain, two heinous bushwacks, 1 bottle of whiskey, 5 rappels, many pitches of steep snow couloir climbing, 1.5 weather days in the tent, omnipotent pin-drop silence, countless heartbreaking views, and one refreshed mind. Thank you Alan, and thank you Pickets for letting us pass.

Our Route: Traversed South to North, starting at Goodell Creek, then going up the Barrier Ridge to the Chopping Block, down into Crescent Creek Basin, up and over Himmelhorn-Ottohorn Col, down the Mustard Glacier, over Picket Pass, over Luna Pass, past Luna Lake, around the Luna Cirque, over the Challenger Arm, down the Eiley-Wiley Ridge, and finally out at Big Beaver to Hwy 20. Whew!

Here is a sample of photos - more to come later!

Water's strength

2008-08-12T14:59:00.000-07:00

About 5 miles from Index, taken in June 2008. Yes, it is a road:

And an aikido water quote, just cause I like it:

"If your opponent strikes with fire, counter with water, becoming completely fluid and free-flowing. Water, by its nature, never collides with or breaks against anything. On the contrary, it swallows up any attack harmlessly." - O Sensei

Song of the Day: Coo-Coo Bird

2008-08-11T12:15:00.000-07:00

And another, older version, with lyrics:

Gonna build me a log cabin
on a mountian so high
So I can see Willie
as he goes on by

Um hmm hmm...

Oh the coo-coo is a pretty bird
She wobbles when she flies
She never hollers coo-coo
'Til the fourth day of July

I've played cards in England
I've played cards in Spain
I'll bet you ten dollars
I'll beat you next game

Jack of diamonds, Jack of diamonds
I've known you from old
Now you've robbed my poor pockets
Of my silver and my gold

Um hmm hmm...

I've played cards in England
I've played cards in Spain
I'll bet you ten dollars
I beat you this game

Oh the coo-coo is a pretty bird
She wobbles when she flies
She never hollers coo-coo
'Til the fourth day of July

One silly little dance

2008-07-25T11:35:00.000-07:00

Check it:

"No politics, no borders, no guns; it's just one man doing a silly
little dance, and the world is joining in."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlfKdbWwruY

Natalee's Bachelorette Party

2008-07-22T10:47:00.001-07:00

The best bacherlorette party I've been to, by far! Started with a day on Lake Whatcom - thanks Trisha for letting us use your parents' house and boat! Then we ate dinner (again, thanks Trisha!), got dressed up, and went out on the town, accompanied by our hot man, Ricardo.

Natalee, you are one hot mama. Scott is a lucky man. Thanks for letting us celebrate with you.

A Sunday Climb on Sloan Peak

2008-07-21T16:09:00.000-07:00

Sloan Peak is about 7800' and situated near Darrington. Alan Kearney and I climbed it yesterday via a variation of the Corkscrew route (came up the Bedal Creek valley). It was a great climb - took us 11.5 hours of hiking, scrambling and climbing without much rest! Mostly 3rd and 4th class scrambling, but a little fifth class....quite fun! All in all, 5000 feet of elevation gain....oof, sore legs today. But a great climb, with spectacular views of the North Cascades and Glacier Peak area. Saw Rainier too....

A great article by my friend, Scott Miles

2008-07-02T10:37:00.001-07:00

Check it out if you're in the mood for some inspiring reading: http://eatthestate.org/09-05/AfterNovember2.htm

A most curious appearance at Bellingham's own Casa Que Pasa

2008-06-23T17:46:00.000-07:00

What to make of it?

Washington Pass Ski Day - June 1

2008-06-04T17:19:00.000-07:00

Yeah for spring skiing! And yeah for friends!

Ski to Sea 2008

2008-05-30T17:07:00.001-07:00

Well, Ski to Sea 2008 was a grand time, except for the fact that they canceled the canoe leg. Poo! But we managed to have lots of fun anyways (did someone say Jello shots?). Go Huckers! Can't wait for 2009.....

My cats are cute.

2008-04-28T18:08:00.000-07:00

And they make me laugh.

Cross-Pollination Party '08

2008-04-28T17:46:00.000-07:00

Fun was had!! Unfortunately, I only took pictures before the party really started, so I only have photos of those who were on time. Oh well!

Jess's Graduation Party - March 22, 2008

2008-03-27T11:40:00.001-07:00

Aww...you all are the greatest! Ya Jess - congratulations!

New Kitten!

2008-03-16T15:39:00.001-07:00

Her name's Uma. She is a doll. Sylvester wasn't too sure about her at first, but they love each other now. More pics soon!

New Kilimanjaro report

2008-01-13T09:21:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone,

I just finished an article on my Kilimanjaro climb for work, here it is:

Kilimanjaro: Good Living on the Top of Africa

Enjoy!

Shawn

New Year's Eve 2007

2008-01-02T14:04:00.000-08:00

Hey, it's 2008! Here are a few photos from our New Year's Eve...

We started off with a nice, mellow potluck at Anitra's.

Natasha and I BEFORE the wine and champagne.

Justin and Zephyr at the fireball party.

Hence, the famous fireball, which dropped into a pool of gasoline as the clock struck midnight...yes, it was as scary as it looks.

The flaming pool of gasoline, post-fireball drop.

Anitra and I.

Zephyr and Justin.

There was a lot of cracking up...

The girls - this is the only picture I have from the party in which we look halfway sane.

They mostly look like this...

And this...

The next day we decided to go skiing. We got a true "alpine start"...I think we actually started skiing at 1pm!

Our nice, big snowpit...

Good thing the snow was stable, or we would have been buried by our own pit...! I have to admit, I was a little worried about that...

First day of skiing!! Whee!

2007-12-16T20:02:00.000-08:00

Went out skiing for the first time this season at Mt. Baker with my friends, Anitra and Zephyr. We had a seriously fun time remembering how to make turns and chatting, in equal amounts. Here are some pics from our day:

At the top of Chair 1.

All day long, the sky was dark, with this weird underlighting. But the visibility was greatly and it didn't snow at all.

Woohoo, self-portrait!

Anita and beautiful Sadie.

Zephyr and sweet Noah.

Zephyr and her husband, Justin.

Check it out.

2007-12-14T13:36:00.000-08:00

Stephen Shapiro, one of the amazingly fun people Mom and I met in South Africa (who also happens to be a professional speaker), wrote a fun day-by-day diary of his trip to Africa - it's got great pictures and stories, so check it out! http://www.steveshapiro.com/south-africa

There's no place like home.

2007-12-14T09:58:00.000-08:00

Bellingham - even in the middle of the dark, dark winter - is a beautiful place. Here are some photos to celebrate returning to this place I love.

The boardwalk, on my ride to work each day.

Where I spend 8 hours a day, five days a week: the American Alpine Institute.

Sunset over Bellingham Bay - which occurs at like 4:15pm in the winter!

My beloved Mt. Baker, as seen from "the county" outside of town.

Downtown Bellingham.

It's the people you meet...

2007-12-11T10:05:00.001-08:00

Thanks to "The Group" (aka, everyone we met at Zulu Nyala). Mom and I agree that, while the animals, scenery, and culture were spectacular, the trip just wouldn't have been the same without all of you! Here's to each of you. Stay in touch, and Giya Bonga!

-Shawn and Mary Ellen

Another hard day by the pool.

Sweet Marlaina and Ray.

The group at our Last Supper.

Hehe...Al, we're gonna miss you...

Remember this?

The walking safari - our single source of exercise in Africa.

"Can I hold the gun?"

Preparing for the Nompondo village tour.

Sebenzile, our tour guide, shows us how the local women drink beer in the House of the Ancestors.

Mom with the village children. Who is delighting who here?

Fun Kilimanjaro Videos

2007-12-09T09:30:00.000-08:00

For your viewing pleasure...

Just after summiting:

Descending the fun way:

Returning to Barafu Camp (high camp):

For Kilimanjaro pictures, go to http://shawnkolson.blogspot.com/2007/12/back-from-paradise-and-back-in-touch.html

Pictures! Finally!

2007-12-09T09:18:00.000-08:00

Mom and I are in the process of posting pictures for many of our blog entires, so check back! For Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar pics and video, go to http://shawnkolson.blogspot.com/2007/12/back-from-paradise-and-back-in-touch.html

Cats and golf, the African way...

2007-12-05T00:47:00.000-08:00

Mom suggested I talk a bit about our visit to the Cheetah Rehabilitation Center. It was really more like a cat rehab center, because they had cheetahs, serval cats, caracal cats (which are also called Persian Lynx), and African Wild Cats (which look exactly like domesticated house cats, except they have stripes on their tails and legs and are in fact quite wild).

We arrived at the rehab center at 4:30pm, just in time for feeding. We were greeted by a young woman named Hugonette who had four buckets of raw, plucked chicken. Our group of six was completely surprised when she gestured for us to follow her into the first enclosure: the serval cats. This would have never happened in the US. I mean, these cats were wild and hissing and all clammering for the chicken. Servals are about as big as a labrador retriever, but they have big teeth and nasty claws. They are beautiful though, and indeed went for the chicken and not us, so we mostly just stood around and gaped while they ate. Next were the cheetahs. They had three, all in different enclosures. One was a "grumpy old bitch," so we didn't go in her cage, but we did go in with one of the males, who actually let me pet him while he was drinking a bucket of blood from Hugo's hands. It felt like an entirely BAD idea, but she encouraged me to "just give him a little stroke," and so I figured when else am I going to get THIS opportunity. I've got pictures, for those of you who don't believe it.

Just a word on the cats. Most of them were brought in by farmers, who found them either injured or abandoned as kittens. Some of them were captured by farmers, who tried to turn them into pets, but the cats are so wild and they get so stressed that they refuse to eat for weeks at a time. Finally, the farmers give up their insane notions and hence the cats end up at the rehab center. To be release into the wild after rehab, the cats have to prove that they are ready. This means that they have to kill a live chicken that has been let into their enclosure and NOT SHARE it with the other cats. One of the servals recently passed this test and will be released soon. Apparently the cheetah that we petted can catch the chicken, but then just lets it go without taking a bit. He'll have to practic e hard over the next few weeks.

We also got to watch the Caracal Cats and African Wild Cats eat. Before she threw the chicken to the caracals, though, Hugo went into the enclosure and brought out a two-month old baby caracal. Oh my god, so stinkin' cute. I got to hold him, and he just went all limp and let me adore his fuzzy warmth. He did have frightenly big paws and claws, even for a two-month old. Again, I have pictures to prove it.

Okay, I have one minute left on the computer, so I'll just say that last night our group had an incredible time playing "bush golf." I'll explain more later, but let's just say we were hitting down the fairway and into a herd of zebras and impala. Again, another experience I may well never have again in my life.

Zebras on the golf course (see the 150 yard sign?)

The official golf poster...sorry it's sideways.

Lots of love, and see you all soon!
shawn

The End of the African Experience

2007-12-05T00:16:00.000-08:00

December 5, 2007

Hello Dear Ones--

Mary Ellen here wrapping up on our very last day in Africa, South Africa to be specific. We just had our last safari and again, it was memorable. The elephants have been elusive since our first day and our guide, Pen, was determined to find them. He picked up the tracks and found them he did. We found 2 mamas and a calf nearly hidden in the brush. He drove off track into the bush stopping 10-15 feet away from them. It was incredible on many levels--first of all, African elephants are skittish--unlike Indian elephants, they cannot be tamed--so the fact that they let us be so close without bolting was amazing; second--they were sleeping--elephants only sleep 20% of the day b/c they need to eat the rest of the time--and although we woke them, they were still sleepy and dreamy, especially the baby; they were snuggling together, often one of the mamas leaning her head and tusks on the baby's back, with their huge ears slowly flapping, even lifting their trunks to scratch their big heads. It was a very quiet and awesome (in the old sense of the word) experience.

Also, I began my day quite early having awakened at 4:30am, unable to return to sleep. I slipped out about 5:15am to another gorgeous African morning with the sounds of birds and insects loud in the air and a view across a huge, lush valley. After a few big breaths, I decided to go to the restaurant to see if I could get a cup of tea. As I emerged into the central outdoor area, there, right in front of my were 3 warthogs, one on her knees grazing. It was another little gift as the warthog has wormed its way into my heart and I must say has become my favorite African animal. Everytime I see them, especially with their babies who are spinning and running and playing, it makes me laugh. They are so damn cute with their big heads with beard tufts on the sides and warts on the sides of their cheeks, and their curly tusks, and round little muscular butts and tails that pop straight up whenever they run.

One recap about Zulu life. We went to a real Zulu village where a woman guide took us around. She was so knowledgeable and straightforward and enlightened. She talked about Zulu customs, how that has affected the spread of Aids, and the plight of women in particular. Zulu women pretty much do all the work. There is a high rate of unemployment so many of the men leave the village to go to Johannesburg or elsewhere to make a living, often in the mines, and they only get home for holidays like Easter and Christmas. The men can have many wives, though often do not because they can't afford to. When a man marries a woman, he must give her family 11 cows. If she has a child from a different man, an extra cow must be added. If she has children already from the man she is marrying, that number of cows can be subtracted. If the parents of the bride live in the city and do not want cows, the negotiated price value of the 11 cows must be given. Then forever more the woman is indebted to the man and must do his wishes. HIV/Aids is a huge problem, about 25% of people in South Africa are infected and in the rural village we visited, it is at about 35%. This is complicated by the fact that the men come back from the cities carrying the virus, and refuse to use condoms--thus it spreads to the village. The women, because they are dependent financially on the men, are unable to refuse sex without condoms. But our woman guide states there is an effort to educate--just that it is such a huge problem and the money for programs tends to accumulate in the cities and very little trickles down to the villages. Considering all this, South Africa seems much less destitute than Tanzania in terms of poverty, though it is very, very poor. We visited the home of a 78 year old Zulu grandmother who is raising her 4 grandchildren b/c their parents died. They lived in a very traditional setting with the round hut for the ancestors. It was amazing to hear the customs. They had so little, cooked over an open wood fire in a small round hut, but seemed content.

It is such a wonder that our safari guides, who speak English very well and seem very aware and well-informed, have indeed paid their wives families 11 cows. Wow.

I will leave a bit on the Cheetah Rehab Center to Shawn. Suffice it to say that it was the experience of a lifetime to be in an enclosure with the cats.

I love you all very much and cannot wait to get home to see you. However, Africa has made a lasting impression and I feel certain this will not be my last visit to this incredible continent.

Love,

Mary Ellen

South Africa: Zulu Nyala

2007-12-02T03:59:00.000-08:00

It's Sunday afternoon, and in 30 minutes, Mom and I will be heading out to the Cheetah Rehabilitation Center, 45 minutes away. Not sure exactly what we'll be doing, but other than adoring fluffy baby cheetahs, what else matters?

I wanted to quickly describe what we've been up to here in Zulu Nyala for the past three days. Zulu Nyala is a game reserve and series of lodges in eastern South Africa. The wild lands of South Africa are divided up between public (government-run) and private reserves of land. All are fenced. Zulu Nyala, from what I can remember, is small by comparison to other game reserves - I think about 1500 hecacres. It is home to the four of the "Big Five" safari animals (the only thing it doesn't have is leopard, but it does have rhino, elephant, buffalo, and lion). It also has the usual warthogs, nyala, impala, zebra, giraffe, crocodiles, hippo, rock monitor, kudu, spotted genets, and so many others. The animals here are much fatter and more relaxed than in the Serengeti because they have way less predators. Also, we are here during the lush season, so there is plenty of food. All the animals are "dropping" their babies, and so we have seen fairly new little critters tottering about on their spindly legs. Very cute.

Most memorable so far was the 6-hour game drive we did two nights ago. We went from 2:30 to 8:30pm, and it gets dark here around 6:30pm, so we did two hours in the complete dark. We had a great guide named Brit, who is a white guy by appearance but seems to know the Zulu language, culture, and land as if it were his own, and indeed, he did grow up very close to the game reserve on a sugar cane plantation. We had a great group in general - a man and his father from Boston, Mom and I, and two women from Seattle. We saw everything and just generally laughed and bumped around in the safari car for 6 hours. It was great. 3/4 of the way through, we stopped and the guide pulled out a table, picnic cloth, and a full bar. I had some very nice whiskey on the rocks, after which I just HAD to try the Amarula Cream, a local liquer specialty. Seriously yummy - it's like Bailey's Irish Cream taking a sexy, tropical vacation. We toasted to a backdrop of a lightening storm that was coming in, and afterwards, on the drive back, we found the lioness that we had been searching for all day. She was gorgeous and completely unconcerned, just moseying down the road ahead of us, lit by the special red light that preceeded us (red light doesn't blind the animals like regular headlights do.) Minutes before we pulled back into the lodge, the rain came....in waves, and we all marveled at the perfect timing.

So much more, but time to go love up some irrisistable baby cheetahs.

Love,
Shawn and ME

Back from paradise, and back in touch. PICTURES AND VIDEO!!

2007-12-01T03:18:00.000-08:00

Well hello there, long time (Shawn here, Mary Ellen will be along shortly). Internet was down in Zanzibar, and we didn't really have enough time in the Johanesburg airport, so here I am, in South Africa at Zulu Nyala, with lots to report.

First of all, thanks to everyone keeping in touch. It is so nice to get comments on the blog and to get various emails and pieces of home.

Me and my guide, Godfrey, on the summit of Kilimanjaro

OK, so first things first. Kilimanjaro was a success! From our high camp, called Barafu Camp (which means "Ice Camp") at 15,000+ feet, we woke at midnight on November 24 and left for the summit around 12:30am. It was a cold and clear night, with moon and stars so bright I ALMOST wished I had sunglasses. It was a surprisingly easy 5 hours to the summit. Well, to be more specific it was four and a quarter hours to the crater rim, where the wind started to absolutely blast us, and then about 45 minutes of walking on the crater rim to gain the summit, which was only another 300 feet of elevation gain. It was absolutely magical in the way that only standing on a tall mountain in the middle of a cold, clear night with all of Africa below can be. Though it was really cold. The kind of cold where if you stop for a break any longer than four or five minutes, your toes start to go numb and you have to start jumping around like a monkey to keep warm, so you might as well start walking again anyways. If I had to guess, I'd say it was in the teens (fahrenheit) at the summit, including the wind chill and the freezing fog. I wore: balaclava, wool hat, two pairs of heavy gloves, down coat, fleece coat, three polypros, long underwear on bottom, schoeler pants, and ski pants, as well as my climbing boots. It was just about right. It was the first time I've ever climbed up 4000 feet in a down coat. Nonetheless, I felt fit and happy climbing up to the top of Africa, and apparently did the up part in a very respectable time, despite the fact that I was a girl, which was apparently a factor that my guide had taken into consideration :) My guide, Godfrey, was great by the way. He was 32, native to Tanzania, and very knowledgeable about the mountain. If you didn't know already, it was a regular "Expedition Shawn," and just for me, there was a guide, porter, cook, and waiter. Yes, you heard me....a waiter. Who set up my dining table, complete with table cloth, and brought me my dinner and breakfast. Quite a different experience than I'm used to in the mountains....

Sunrise while on the descent from the top of Africa.

After summiting, we took a few pictures and promptly descended, due to the cold, the altitude, and the others waiting for their turn at a picture with the famous signboard. We were the third party to summit that morning, and we only saw about 10 - 15 parties on the way up. Low season. During high season, you can see up to 600 people, so I felt very lucky... Kilimanjaro is by no means remote, but it is beautiful and unique.

Descending back to Barafu Camp.

It took about an hour and a half to run back down to Barafu camp (and run we did, giggling and sliding in the endless scree). On the way down, the sun came up, and it was a site to remember - I will post pics when I can (technology has not worked in my favor in terms of getting pics on the computer...so sorry). We stopped at about 18,000 feet, took of the down, and I made a few calls from the satellite phone. A highlight was talking with my sister, Emma, who is a nurse who promptly asked me, "What is your blood oxygen level?" (I was lucky enough to be able to carry a small pulse oximeter with me, which measures pulse and blood oxygen saturation levels.) See, Emma and I had a little conversation before I left for Africa which went something like this: "Shawn, just make sure your blood oxygen doesn't drop below 93." Me: "Um...it will probably be in the 80s, and maybe in the 70s." Emma: "What? You'll be blue and practically dead!" Anyhow, on the satellite phone, she asked me to check, which I hadn't at the summit. At 18,000 feet, I told her, it was fluctuating between 76 and 78. "What? Get the hell down! Get your butt off the mountain!" Hehe...truth was, I felt absolutely fine. But apparently that's not a normal blood oxygen level, at least at sea level.

The Rebmann Glacier, which is rapidly disappearing. All ice on Kilimanjaro is predicted to disappear completely in less than 20 years.

Wow, I still have so much to tell. I descended to high camp, rested, ate, and then we walked about 10km and 5000 feet down to Mweke Camp (by way of a different route than we ascended) at 10,000 feet. I ate again, slept, and then the next morning, on November 25, walked out to the park gate, where I received my certificate and was driven back to the hotel, where I did more eating, more sleeping, and no laundry or internet, unfortunately.

The roof of our hotel in Stonetown, the Dhow Palace, overlooked the rooftops and the Indian Ocean.

The next day, I met Mom at Arusha Airport. She was positively glowing from her time spent doctoring the Tanzanian kids in need. I was glowing from my Kilimanjaro climb, though my right big toe nail was glowing in a different, bluish sort of way (Natasha, you would be proud. I think I am going to have a toenail baby soon.) We flew on a small airplane about an hour and a half to Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania that is known for its history of the slave and spice trades, its Arabic, Portugese, French, and Middle Eastern influenes, and, best of all, its white sand beaches. Oh yeah.

The pool at the Dhow Palace was absolutely heavenly.

We got into Stone Town (the historic part of the main town on the island) in the afternoon, then checked into the Dhow Palace, which is a hotel now but used to be the palace/home of a very rich Arabic merchant. It is still very decked out in beautiful, old pieces of furniture and traditional style, and there is an absolutely lovely, tile pool in the middle of the compound with a view straight up five stories to the open sky. We set out baggage down and then walked to a Middle Eastern restaurant that was recommended to us (how we found it, I don't know. Stone town is a tangle of narrow streets, alleys, speeding bikes and cars, and hundreds of shops that all look alike. I ate authentic falafel and fell in love.

Our rough living situation at Matemwe Beach, at the far northast end of Zanzibar.a

After staying a night in Stone Town, we then spent two nights at Matemwe Beach Village on the north east coast of Zanzibar. This was our beach paradise. For two days, we lost ourselves in the surf, in naps, in pina coladas, in the sun, and mostly, in our own unwinding. It was absolutley blissful and deliciously hedenistic. Mmm. And, surprisingly, not too Western. People from all around the world were staying there, though the place was extremely quiet and calm, and it was set in the middle of a rural beach town, where the local women in long dresses gathered seaweed jall day long and the children played their own version of soccer on the beach during low tide. For two days, we didn't think, didn't talk much, and definitely didn't exert ourselves in the least bit. Good recovery from Kilimanjaro and from bush medicine.

We spent a lot of time in these beds, with the Indian Ocean lapping at our feet.

On Nov 29, we flew from Zanzibar to Johanesburg, then to Richards Bay, where we drove to our current location, the Zulu Nyala Game Reserve. It was a long day of traveling, leaving Zanzibar at 6am and arriving here at 8:30pm, but well worth the journey. We are in the heart of Zulu-land, and are doing our best not to accidentely speak Swahili here (damn, we were just getting to know how to say a few things in Swahili). I will post more on this place later, as we are now going to go on a village tour of a local Zulu community. So far, we have been on morning game drive, an afternoon/night game drive (complete with a full bar stop in the middle of the bush - whiskey, wine, amarula cream, vodka, your choice, all in the middle of nowhere!), and a walking safari (this morning at 6am).

Yes, we were certainly roughing it in our "tent."

Zebras chilling outside our tent at Zulu Nyala.

Off to the village....more later!

Shawn (and ME)

Kid, kids, more kids!

2007-11-24T00:13:00.000-08:00

Hi--Mary Ellen here again. I've been off in the bush for a few days and unable to post, but do I ever have stories to tell.

First of all, Shawn's climb has been going well. She has been checking in on the satellite phone, but was running low on battery power, so I probably won't hear from her until she gets down on Sunday. She was going to summit this morning and should have done so about 7am. I'm hoping she did and that all went well. She reports that Kili is very beautiful and very HUGE with amazing wildlife.

I have been working my little tail off this week and loving it. The learning curve has been very steep, but having Dr. Mashana with us has been great and I pick his brain at every opportunity. Consequently, I have had a crash course in tropical medicine. And it's a good thing because I have been seeing all kinds of things I only ever heard about when I was in medical school. We finished up at the school in Karatu village, Tumaini Junior School--K to 6 in our words. This is a privately owned school. The owner is a very switched on Tanzanian man who is compassionate, intelligent and hard-working. He arranged the health assessments. He often takes in kids from other areas and provides education and board--including one child with microcephaly and developmental disabilities, and another with severe asthma. I told you about the school in my last blog, and though it was an eye-opening experience, as a private school, the children were way, way healthier than in the next school, Oldeani (misspelled in last blog), a remote and very poor public school. Oldeani Primary School has about 750 students and we did assessments on over 400 of them this week in 3 days. The rest will be completed next week, and though I will be gone, more volunteer medical staff will be coming. We saw the students and often the younger toddler siblings. These kids were sick, and I mean sick. Most malnourished, almost all with parasites--worms, amoeba, malaria, schisto, etc. We have been worming ALL kids at both schools. Horrible skin conditions in many. The village is very poor. I saw two 2 year olds with severe pneumonia who would most likely die without antibiotics and even with, it is marginal. We have many drugs, most donated, set up outside on a table in our improvised dispensary, and Sianna, an extraordinary Tanzanian nurse, acts as the pharmacist. It is primative at best. The supplies are spotty. One makes do. We hope that some will follow up at the regular clinics Frank does for the area at the nearby orphanage, Rift Valley Childrens' Village. The good news is that the people are sensitive to basically all antibiotics since they have seen very few, if any, in their lives. Many people die here of treatable conditions, most notably malaria and HIV/Aids. The people , despite this, are elegant, statuesque, and for the most part friendly, although some of the kids are leary of seeing a mzunga (white person)--after all, their boogey man is a white guy who carries them off in the night. Wow, talk about improvising. There is nothing luxurious like lab facilities here. One needs to rely on clinical acumen. I'm really glad I was trained at LA Children's and LA County and have worked on the rez at home! Frank says the best volunteers he gets are docs over 50 because their clinical skills are more honed--the younger docs are trained to rely on lab and other tests more--plus we old ones remember what measles and mumps and chicken pox looks like--good thing because there's a major chicken pox and mumps outbreak up there right now. I wish I could supply multivitamins and one good meal a day to each of these kids. They are such cuties, they melt my heart.

While working at Oldeani, we were staying at the orphanage not too far away. It is up in the hills above Karatu, up a very narrow, horrible dirt road. The orphanage was started by this amazing American woman, India Howell, who has been in Tanzania for many years. It is an incredible place in a stunning location. India has adopted about 6 kids of her own and there are about 45 others. The orphanage employs many local people, with each house having 2 native mamas, a cook, a cook's assistant, plus the grounds keepers, drivers, askari (Masai guards which everyone has here. It is reassuring to have a Masai with his spear and club always alert all night and all day long!) There are many American, one Canadian, and two Australian volunteers there now--most in their 20's and 30's, many with degrees in International Studies or Economics, or some sort of Public Health. There is one guy there who came to volunteer for a month a few years ago and stayed 2 years. He is now back doing a Microfinance project. They are terrific! India is very well-respected here and has earned an excellent reputation among the Tanzanians. The children are so healthy and happy. It is a pleasure to walk them to a nearby very rural school nearby. All school kids here wear uniforms which are very worn. They usually have one other set of clothes and often sandals made of tires. India's kids are better off, but nothing compared to kids in the US. The kids sing and dance and play soccer. They improvise toys. I have not seen any plastic toys since arriving in Africa.

Despite the good conditions at the orphanage, the children still get many tropical diseases and are hours away from any kind of decent hospital care. There are no nearby labs (though there will be Frank's clinic with a lab and xray facility when it is completed, probably in January--though this will be about 45 minutes away, a very short distance to these folks). The night we arrived at the orphanage, we saw 4 ill children. One was very ill, with high fever and severe headache. We felt he had malaria and started him on treatment. (A little factoid for all: The ideal treatment for malaria is one of the malarial antibiotics plus artemesia, a plant product, which is recommended by the World Health Organization world wide. Guess what? We can't get Artemesia in our country, even if you have malaria. I wonder if the drug companies have anything to do with that?) The next morning the medical people were off to Oldeani to do the school. When we returned, tired and very ready for a cold drink, India met us. Ish (Ishmael) was much worse--his fever was 103, he was vomiting, had some diarrhea, was taking no liquids or food, had a major headache and would not move. We went to check on him and found a severely ill child with a clear presentation of meningitis--he had a very stiff neck and spine and it was way to painful for him to move his head, even a little. He was extremely dry with a raging fever. Frank had returned to town in the afternoon. There was a volunteer pediatric nurse from the orphanage, a young anesthesia/critical care doc there for the week and me. We went to the infirmary at the orphanage and rooted through boxes. With limited supplies we got an 18g line in him (a feat in a dry kid), got saline into him, and gave him antibiotic, decadron and zofran (the last 2 the young doc had happened to bring along with him). We rigged an IV on his bunk bed and went to work. Later Frank managed to send up ceftriaxone and more IV supplies. After 2 days he is much better, though still on IV meds. He probably has aseptic meningitis with malaria, but we couldn't take the chance on a bacterial meningitis, considering how sick he was. Wow--first time I've ever treated meningitis without a spinal tap, let alone without the child being in a hospital. Bush medicine--it is a very humbling experience!

Tonight we will have Thanksgiving dinner at the orphanage with many friends of Frank and Susan and India. (There was too much going on to have a celebration on Thanksgiving day.) There is so much to be thankful for, including that Ish seems to be making it, that there are truly caring people in the world, that we are all the same under our skins, that I have such wonderful family and friends--old and new. I feel very blessed to be here, though I miss those of you at home.

Lots of Love,
Mary Ellen

The Karatu Kids!

2007-11-19T07:16:00.000-08:00

Hello Everyone--

You are once again stuck with Mary Ellen as Shawn is now on the mountain. She phoned on the satellite phone just a bit ago and I'm happy to report that she had a great first day on the mountain. The porter had just set up her own personal tent and they were cooking her dinner--rough life on the mountain. It is clear they are aiming to impress her as they want the business connection with AAI. But seriousy, she sounded great, was happy, and looking forward to the rest of the climb. The guides are encouraging a pole pole (slow) ascent so she can aclimatize.

I spent my first day of health assessments at a primary school in Karatu. This is not like any primary school at home, though amazing in its own right. The children are precious. One little 4 year old actually petted my hair and it made my day! Interesting problems--like the first thought when a child has a tummy ache is worms, Ascaris to be specific. Very common here, as is amoeba, schistosomiasis, malaria, nutritional problems. There is also a serious HIV/Aids problem in the adult community and consequently many orphans. The day was very busy. We set up a clinic in a class room with simple wooden desks that hold 3-4 children--just spread a cloth for an exam table. Supplies were limited, no lab access, so all based on clinical skills. I had the most impressive Tanzanian woman as my translator--her name is Mary--and we immediately bonded. Working alongside with her own translator was a peds nurse (Yes, Emma, I was thinking of you.) who is from somewhere in the Bay Area. She is here for 3 months, volunteering at the orphanage and with Dr. Frank--lovely young woman. Also a critical care doc from Columbia U. who is married to India's (India Howell--incredible woman from the East coast who has been here for years and has an orphanage with 45+ kids outside of Karatu) niece. So many people to admire, it feels really, really good. I worked my butt off and loved every minute of it. Tonight we are having dinner at Frank and Susan's house with Dr. Washana, a Tanzanian doctor who helped today, and his nurse. He will be working with Dr. Frank at the dispensary when it is completed.

Tomorrow another day at the school. We will finish up our 210 assessments and then tomorrow night we will go to the orphanage where we will stay until Sunday morning. India is having a big Thanksgiving dinner on Saturday night which should be lots of fun. We will be working in a more remote village, Oliani, where the children are much, much sicker per Dr. Frank. One day at a time.

Much love,

ME

we go our separate ways

2007-11-18T08:19:00.000-08:00

11/18/07 This is Mary Ellen posting this evening as Shawn is now in Machame awaiting her climb which will begin tomorrow at 10AM. Our day began very early as we left Ndutu at 6AM. It proved to be a very fitting ending for as we pulled out on the dirt road leaving Ndutu there was a huge bull elephant right in the middle of the road, drinking from puddles from the evenings offering of rain. Naturally, we drove off the road into the bush to go around him--no question of who was dominant. The drive was beautiful with the sun rising through horizontal sheered clouds, bright pink, so clear you could see Mt. Longei, an active volcanoe in the distance. We left the Serengeti and progressed up from the dry low lands to the highlands, past Masai bomas, to the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. At the top we took one last look down into the enormous crater with its lake and plains, both of us wondering when and if we will ever return. Then up into the highland rain forest again, to the gate of the Conservation Area. I had to get a decal--I love (heart) warthogs!--which is indeed true. They were my personal favorite, though clearly not as magestic as the cats and the giraffes and elephants.

Then on to Gibb's Farm again where we were greeted like old friends. Within minutes a series of "small world" events occurred. First of all a woman named Annie, whom Steven had spoken of, was there. It turned out she and a friend were there for a yoga weekend. Her friend was a woman from Oakland who is a family doc and also with an MSPH (Masters in Public Health) who has been working in Arusha for the past two years on an AIDS project. Annie was texting Dr. Frank because she wanted him to meet her. Of course Dr. Frank was on his way to meet me. Then, as Shawn was in the gift shop, there just happened to be a man with whom she had been conversing prior to the trip--Simon, a well-known mountain guide. Frank and Susan arrived and are truly remarkable, dedicated, and very fun, full-of-life people. We had no sooner sat down and begun talking when a young man who worked at Gibbs came to ask Dr. Frank to see his 2 year old who had a cough. My work began then and there. I went off with this young man, Kyle, who is building the structures at Gibbs. In conversation, it turns out he was at WWU in Bellingham for college. His wife, who grew up in Zimbabwe, knows Kathy Dexter. I asked, thinking it was a long shot, if they were related to Sterling. Turns out Sterling is Krista's (Kyle's wife) youngest brother. Sterling lives in Bellingham and has actually done work for me. How unlikely is that?! By the way, the adorable 2 year old, Eli, was just fine--just a cold.

So after another magnificent lunch with lots of lively conversation, Shawn parted with Steven for her journey to Macheme and I went off with Frank and Susan. I am in their lovely little home in Karatu feeling very welcome and at home. We begin a very hectic week early tomorrow.

Shawn has phoned me on her satellite phone and has arrived there safely. She has met with her guide and the owner of the guide company and is ready to go in the morning. She doesn't have internet access so you're stuck with me.

We are well and having an unbelievable journey.

Love to all of you,

Mary Ellen and Shawn

Cheetah and babies, whoa!

2007-11-17T07:55:00.000-08:00

This post is a joint Shawn and Mary Ellen venture, so hang with us while we type together as our fingers might get tangled...

Today was our last at Ndutu Lodge, and it was a great one. We took three safaris. In the morning, we returned to the site of the buffalo kill and actually got to witness the lioness eating....kinda gorey. She was really working hard tearing the meat and stomach lining and was visibly tired and panting hard. She kept looking around for the other lionesses to help her eat this massive beast before the hyenas and vultures helped themselves. The next safari was probably the highlight and was unplanned as our guide, Steven, heard that there had been a cheetah sighting and came and found us to ask if we wanted to go try our luck finding it. We did. And we were lucky. After driving around for about a half hour, Steven suddenly stopped the Land Cruiser and said 'there they are!' We saw a mother cheetah laying in the grass with her three cubs. We watched them for quite a while as one of the cubs tried to climb a tree and wrestled with his buddies - so cute. Cheetahs are incredibly beautiful up close (we were about 15 feet away), and they are rare to see, so we felt super lucky. On this drive we also saw another new animal: the bat-earred fox. They were very skiddish, so we didn't get photos but got a good look.

We just came back from the third drive, and the hit of this one was the lilac-breasted roller. I know, this sounds like a fancy car-hop (waitress on roller skates), but actually it's a bird. A quite beautiful one at that. It's about ten inches long, with bright turquoise feathers and a lilac-colored breast. Wow. It was a startling sight to see against the dry, tan bush landscape. We also saw an elephant break a tree. Oh, and we also saw a group of three young Masai boys who were tending their family's cattle at a seasonal camp. Young Masai boys are sent with the cattle to the lowlands to graze in the dry season when there is no water in the highlands. Masai are the only people who are legally allowed to walk and live in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. All other humans must be in a vehicle or accompanied by an armed ranger. Life is very hard for these young boys who are charged with fending off the lions, buffalo, and elephants from their cattle. Steven told us a story about one boy who last year got kicked by a buffalo and had his stomach hanging out - he died before proper medical attention could be delivered. Still, their task is their source of pride, and if they are brave they will be rewarded with the best wives. It is startling to see such young boys with such serious responsibilities.

Tomorrow, we drive back to Gibb's Farm for lunch with Dr. Frank Artress and his wife, Susan. Then, Shawn will continue on to Machame where she will meet her guides for Kilimanjaro, and Mary Ellen will go with Dr. Frank to begin health assessments on children in the bush.

Possibly this will be our last chance to post for a while (7 - 10 days), but Shawn will be phoning in dispatches each day of her climb on Kilimanjaro, which you can read at AAI's blog at http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com.

Lots of love,
Shawn and Mary Ellen

Eat, eat, eat. Don't get eaten.

2007-11-16T08:08:00.000-08:00

This is the mantra of the Serengeti. At least what I've seen of it. All the creatures, humans included, are busy busy busy and spend all day looking for food and water, while trying not to get eaten. And when i say humans are doing this too, I mean it. There are still loads of Masai people who live traditionally, herding cattle and living nomadically off the land. We see them every now and then on our drives from place to place - they just appear suddenly on the side of the road, with their bright red and purple dress, long staff, and sandals made out of old tires. They are very serious compared to the other Tanzanians we've seen, who seem happy and bright despite the extreme poverty they are living in. But I won't go into that now....

We arrived at Ndutu Lodge yesterday, after a full day of driving from Gibbs Farm thru the Ngorongoro Crater and onto the Serengeti. What a day of driving! We saw so many animals, that I am going to refer to our list that we made as we saw these incredible creatures. Here we go:

Cape buffalo, warthogs, jackals (both golden and black-backed), ostrich, serval cat, zebra (my favourite), wildebeast, hartebeast, spotted hyeana, Thompson gazelle, hippo, elephant, flamangos, rhino, lions, Grants gazelles, Masai giraffe, impala, dikdik, Steinback antelope, leopard tortoise....and i won't even list all the birds, but wow we saw a lot and our guide, Steven, named them all for us (Val, you would love it...i took pictures and video for you!)

So there is the list so far, but i'm sure it will grow. A few of the encounters were especially memorable, like the three female lions that had just killed the buffalo and that were panting in the shade before eating while the buffalo slowly bloated with death and sun. Or like the giant elephant that mosied in front of our car, each step like a meditation, and ears waggling to fan his hot hide. The giraffes tonight were possibly the best - we saw two young males fighting for dominance - they fight by what's called necking, where they twist their necks up and push against each other. It seems a very civilized way of fighting, because from what i could tell when they got tired they took a break and had a little snack to replenish their strength, then they would continue the necking. they also use their short horns as weapons and bang their heads into each other - it was fairly ferocious, in a giraffe sort of way, which is slow and graceful...

Ndutu Lodge is quiet, beautiful, and the rooms are simple. However, we have found in all three lodges we have stayed at so far, the food is far from simple. Four course dinners, tea time (yes, I'm in heaven...there is unlimited high quality tea here WITH unlimited hot milk and raw sugar!!!!). Breakfasts and lunches are also extravagant and I am sure I am gaining weight and loving every calorie. Hopefully Kilimanjaro help in that area...

Speaking of, I leave in two days to meet my Kili guide! I am feeling ready. I did go for a run at 6000 feet the other day and it did kick my butt, but oh well, I'm certainly not going to be running up Kili.

OK, I will now attempt some photos, but no promises...and probably no captions for now as I am running out of time on the computer.

Much love and more later,

Shawn and Mary Ellen

We made the paper!

2007-11-16T08:05:00.000-08:00

Check it out - mom and i made the Bellingham Herald: http://www.bellinghamherald.com/lifestyle/story/234421.html

Cool!

Arrival in Africa

2007-11-14T11:50:00.001-08:00

Me in the Amsterdam airport! Getting stoked for another 10 hour flight...

Hello from Africa! the internet connection is horrible, so i can't upload pictures right now and i have to be very brief....but i wanted to make a quick post anyway. mom and i are having a fabulous time. we arrived at kilimanjaro international airport after 26 hours of traveling..ew. we were met by locals who whisked us away to the kilimanjaro lodge, which was very lovely and had great food. the best part, of course, was having a real bed and not a cramped airplane seat. wow, this keyboard is really horrible...did i me, mention i would have to be brief?

Our beautiful accommodations at Gibb's Farm.

the next day, tuesday, we left the lodge and drove the three hours to Gibbs Farm, stopping on the way to see traditional maasai housing, baboons, and even giraffe. very cool. we arrived at gibb's and promptly took a nap in our super, amazingly luxurious cottage. i will post pictures later, but our cottage is something out of my best of dreams. and so is the food. and the people, and the gardens, and the smells and flowers and views in this incredible jungle ona hill...but more on that later.

Mom with our guides at the Elephant Caves near Gibbs Farm.

we saw our first elephant today (wednesday). it was partially obscured by bushes, but no doubt it was an elephant. we took a 2 hour walk accompanied by two locals, one gun bearing, into the jungle to the elephant cave, where they roll and dig for minerals. incredible....saw so many plants that i grow indoors in bellingham - orchids, philedendron, spider plants - all growing wild of course.

Me and Gabriel, our gun-toting Park Service guide, who also happens to be a medicinal doctor.

tomorrow, we head for safari - to the ngorongoro crater and the serengheti. (by the way, there is a beer here called serengheti lager - i'm sure the real place will probably a few other spots in me. all those animals to gaze at.) more later, hopefully with a better computer...

love,
shawn and mary ellen

Shawn and Mary Ellen's Africa Itinerary

2007-11-10T10:34:00.000-08:00

We're packing like crazy today, but I wanted to post our official itinerary (my Kilimanjaro climb itinerary is below):

Nov 11 - 12: Dad drives Mom and I to Seattle, we board our noon flight, which I believes flies straight to Amsterdam, where we have a little layover, then fly directly to Kilimanjaro International airport. Stay at Kilimanjaro Lodge.

Nov 13 - 15: We are whisked away and stay at Gibb’s Farm for a few days- see http://www.gibbsfarm.net

Nov 15 – 18: Serengeti safari and trip to Ngorongoro Crater (http://www.ngorongoro-crater-africa.org/).

Nov 18: End of safari – I meet my Kili guides in Machame while Mom volunteers at the health clinic near Gibbs.

Nov 19 - 25: Climbing Kili! See my Kili itinerary below.

Nov 26: Drive to Arusha and meeting Mom fly to Zanzibar (an island with a cool history and stellar beaches). Relax after climb for a few days on the beach. Spend night in Stone Town.

Nov 27-29: Drive to beaches and stay at a bed and breakfast type place

Nov 29: Leave early in morning to fly from Zanzibar to Dar es Salam to Johannesburg in South Africa, then fly to Richards Bay (eastern South Africa) for another six-day safari. http://www.zulunyala.com/

Dec 5: Fly home.

Dec 6: Arrive home late in the afternoon.

Kilimanjaro Itinerary
Day 1: Machame Camp (Nov 19)
Machame Gate (1634 m/5,363 ft) to Machame Hut (2834 m/9,300 ft)
Hike time: 7.5 hrs
Elevation change: +1200 m/+3937 ft
Estimated distance: 10km/6.21 miles
Final elevation: 3100 m/10,170 ft

The trip begins at the Machame Gate where you sign-in, organize the
gear with the porters and begin your climb around mid-day. Today is a
nice leisurely hike through the tropical rain forest.

Day 2: Shira Hut (Nov 20)
Machame Hut (2834 m/9,300 ft) to Shira Hut (3749 m/12,300 ft)
Hike time: 7 hrs
Elevation change: +800 m/+244 ft
Estimated distance: 6km/3.75 miles
Final elevation: 3800 m/12,467 ft

From the Machame Hut, you cross the stream onto its west bank and
follow the path up the steep rocky ridge - criss-crossing a few times
before reaching Shira Hut at the base of a semi-circular wall of rocks.
You will have ascended 900 meters (3,000’) in 5-7 hours and about
6 km (3.72 miles) of walking.

Day 3: Barranco (Nov 21)
Shira Hut (3749 m/12,300 ft) to Barranco Hut (3901 m/12,800 ft)
Hike time: 5 hrs
Elevation change: +100 m/+328 ft
Final elevation: 3900 m/12,800 ft

From Shira Hut, you hike to Lava Tower (15,000’) to acclimate and
then proceed down to Barranco Camp. Tonight's camp is one of the best
on the mountain.

Day 4: Karanga (Nov 22)
Barranco Hut (3900 m/12,800 ft) to Karanga Valley (3963 m/13,000 ft)
Hike time: 3.5 hrs
Elevation change: +100 m/+328 ft
Estimated distance: 4km/2.5 miles
Final elevation: 3963 m/13,000 ft

From Barranco Hut, you climb up through the edge of great Barranco
Wall. It's a tough morning climb a steep trail, but once you reach the
top, the views are wonderful. 95 percentage of the walking today will
be on elevation of 4250m.

Day 5: Barafu (Nov 23)
Karanga Valley (3963 m/13,000 ft) to Barafu Hut (4,600 m/15,091 ft)
Hike time: 3.5 hrs
Elevation change: +600 m/+1968 ft
Estimated distance: 4km/2.5 miles
Final elevation: 4,600 m/15,091 ft
Today is a shorter hike than the past few days, hiking up to the final
camp before you get ascent. Today is the best day to get lots of rest.

Day 6: Summit – Mweka (Nov 24)
Barafu Camp (4,600m/15,091 ft) to the Summit (5896 m/19,343 ft) and
then to Mweka Camp (3100 m/10,170 ft)
Summit time: 7 hrs
Elevation change: +1300 m/+4265 ft
Estimated distance: 5km/3.2 miles
Final elevation: 5896 m/19343 ft
Descent time: 5 hrs
Elevation change: -2800 m/-9186 ft
Estimated distance: 12km/7.5 miles
Final elevation: 3100 m, 10,170 ft

You will start trekking early before sunrise (1-2 am) as the walk
today, you will take 10 - 14 + hours. You will try to avoid the mist
that sets in later in the day. The 1,100-meter (3,600’) ascent in
just over 3 km (1.86 miles) will take you about 6-8 hours, as you try
to reach the summit to watch the sunrise over the Great Rift Valley.
After watching the sunrise, you will have a tough hike, descending down
the mountain to below the tree line.

Day 7: Moshi (Nov 25)
Mweka Hut (3100 m/10,170 ft) to Mweka Gate (1828 m/6,000 ft)
Descent time: 4 hrs
Elevation change: -1250 m/-4101 ft
Estimated distance: 10km/6.21
Final elevation: 1828 m/6000 ft

On your final day, you will have a short three hour hike out, walking
through the lush forest. You will have lunch, and meet a vehicle at the
Mweka park gate and drive back to Moshi.

Shawn and Mary Ellen are going to Africa!

2007-11-09T11:27:00.000-08:00

Shawn and Mary Ellen are leaving for Africa on Nov 11! We will be returning on Dec 6....woohoo, almost gone a whole month! So excited...
Check back periodically - I will be posting updates and photos when I can throughout our trip.

For those of you interested in my Kilimanjaro climb, I will be sending dispatches and (hopefully) photos over a satellite phone to my office, where my coworkers will type them up and post them on our company's blog: alpineinstitute.blogspot.com. I will probably start posting on Nov 18, and I begin the 7-day climb on Nov 19....so check in!

I will soon be posting our complete itinerary.

That's all for now! Over and out,
Shawn 'n ME

The Last Waltz - Halloween 2007

2007-11-08T18:56:00.001-08:00

Well folks, this was supposedly the "Last Waltz" - the last of the Halloween parties in the big Olson barn. My response to that is as Arnold said, "I'll be back." Surely, it is up to the next generation to taken over this magical, zany, wonderful event. Come 'on girls (and the guy or two in our bunch), let's do it!

I'm so glad my friends Sarabeth, Brett, Blythe, and Justin traveled all the way from their respective places - thank you! Also, Natasha and Kurt, my coworkers, so glad you could come! You all made my night fantastic. Jessy and Emma, of course, you too - my awesome sisters.

Here are some pics...I love you all.

Shawnie